We arrived off Spanish Town, Virgin Gorda around 8:00 a.m. and tendered into shore where we met the local "taxis" and journeyed to the Baths. Considering how early we arrived it was very crowded. A number of excursions from a large cruise ship docked at Tortola were already there and a large group of people staying on St. Thomas were there. Two separate tour groups were coming out back from Devil's Beach while we were trying to get there, so we had to wait for a few minutes. The guides for the land based tour were some of the rudest people that I have ever encountered in the Caribbean. They insisted on going backwards through the Baths with large groups and in an effort to maintain a schedule told us that they were hurrying because they had an injured guest with them. Surprisingly no injured guest appeared.
The Baths were lovely, as usual, but, if you get claustrophobic, it can be a bit confining. It is well worth the trip. The short trip down the hill, seems a lot longer coming back up. The snorkeling in Devil's Bay was very nice. There are not as good or as many fish at Devil's Bay, so stay at the Baths proper if you want to see Barracuda, etc. Devil's Bay is much gentler for swimming and allows more spreading out. If you don't want to go through the caves, there's an easier walk from the car park. We spent about two hours there and then made our way back to the top of the Baths, where we rejoined the "taxis" and went back to Spanish Town where we tendered back to the yacht.
If you want a bar in the Caribbean, Toad Hill, at the top of the Bath's is up for sale.
A few signs of Christmas, including an inflated Santa on a yacht in the marina and some 30 foot decorated trees at a couple of public buildings, were in evidence
The captain weighed anchor around noon and we moved to Norman island as we enjoyed lunch. FT was impressed watching the Captain maneuver the yacht past another yacht (not a lot smaller that SD) and "park" it. He had numerous observers on the bridge. Water toys are coming out again this afternoon but the dreaded disembarkation information showed up in our cabin.
Tenders ran all afternoon to Pirates Bight and number of guests, including FT and myself, ventured ashore. It was a gorgeous walk up a hill to the top of the island where you could see both coasts and the SD sitting so nicely (as opposed to rocking and rolling in St. Maarten). And another pleasant surprise, lots and lots of butterflies, orange and black, yellow and white, white with black markings. It was like being in a Disney cartoon with them flitting all around. And there's a nice little patch of snorkeling to the left of the beach. Schools of fish and just about ten feet off shore a huge ray came swimming by. Beware the diving pelicans though. They don't let a human get between them and their dinner. I enjoyed an original Bushwacker, it was more like a nice chocolate shake.
The Returning Guest Reception was held tonight and seemed lightly attended, but the owner and his wife made a point of introducing themselves to each guest. They are staying on for the next couple fo weeks, with their daughter and sons who will join them Friday. Among the return guest nights between us all, we had 1500+ nights but two couples (of which sadly we are not one) accounted for 900+ of those nights. One English couple had more than 650 nights total, each having spent almost a year on board. They boarded with us and are on for a month. FT has 60+ nights which would have put her fourth alone and adding my 28 nights (. . .darn crossings!) did not help much because we were still fourth. Hopefully the days we get in May will help. When Captain T asked FT what she would have to do to get the winning number of nights her answer was classic - win the lottery.
Neither of our children do not want to get off. Their cabin is way neater all the time than their on shore rooms and DS disclosed he doesn't leave his clothes on the floor (as opposed to home where they stay on the floor) because the stewardess keeps picking them up and folding them and he felt bad about creating that much work for her.
Captain did discuss a couple of the new itineraries, especially a couple that deal with the wine country in France and mentioned that those were a result of requests from Club members - so keep those comments coming folks.
The menu Wednesday night was Chef's Degustation menu and included:
Menu
- L'Oeuf Poule au caviar "Surprise"
- Seared Tuna Loin with Grilled Scallop and Carrot Tagliatelle Hazelnut Dressing with Duck Liver Emulsion
- Cream of Pumpkin Soup with Roasted Pumpkin Seeds
- Peach Champagne Sorbet
- Pan Fried Sea Bass on Aubergine Caviar with Saffron, Fresh Herbs Risotto, Bell Pepper Coulis with Basil Oil
or
"3 Ways of Lamb" Lamb Loin "Sous Vide", Grilled Lamb Chop and Braised Lamb Shoulder with Lemon Thyme Beans and Sautéed Forrest Mushrooms
- Morbier Cheese on Dried Fruit and Nuts Bread enhanced with Truffle flavored Honey
- Chocolate Crumble Tart with Marinated Strawberries and Champagne Sabayon
- Homemade Petit Fours and Chocolate Truffles
There was a Vegetarian alternative also available.
We overnighted at Norman island so it has been very calm. A tender service ran from 9:00 p.m. until midnight to accommodate people who wanted to go ashore to Pirates Bight. Reports overheard indicate that some of the "wild bunch" mentioned previously mentioned continued their revelry ashore. We left for the short sail to Jost Van Dyke during breakfast. The first zodiac for guests was around 10:30, and the four of us were on it.
Today was beautiful, literally not a cloud in the sky, gentle breeze which I estimate at about 5 knots from the east. The water in White Bay was smooth as glass and we had a great time. DS and I ventured to Foxy's, by taxi, and the Soggy Dollar where pain killers were sampled and the hat and T shirt supply was replenished.
FT wandered down the beach to One Love and Soggy Dollar. She had to restock on sunscreen. No burns this trip so far and record consumption of sunscreen thanks to the wonderful weather.
Snorkeling was very good. Saw some barracudas. C&C Splash kicked off promptly at 12:30. Of course trays of rum punch and pain killers had been circulating for quite a while. Everyone seemed to enjoy and as others have commented - any walls between passenger groups come down when you mingle in the surf all day. We were almost the last ones to come back to yacht.
At the barbeque on Jost FT saw Chef Josselin working on the charcoal for a grill and went to thank him for the wonderful lamb at the tasting menu the night before. He then responded to a comment we had made to a waiter on a side dish a couple of nights before, calling her by name. You think you would get used to the 5 star attention of SD, but she was still taken a back. No wonder we all keep going back to SD.
We spent a lot of time standing in the surf chit chatting quite a bit with various SD sales folks on this trip. It was great to meet the, especially Ralph. FT believes that SD isn't hurting as much in this economy as some of its competitors which explains why we aren't seeing the further price reductions.
FT went ahead and booked the back to back Greece trip for next summer. 15% on ship discount plus 10% on 2nd voyage only. Nice little savings. The Captain recommends the Ephesus concert, so it will definitely be on the to do list. This definitely takes the sting off the SD withdrawal pains. I am excited because we will at least get a few hours in Istanbul, or as we say Constantinople, where my grandmother grew up and lived for the first 24 years of her life.
Cocktails tonight were served in the main salon, and we dined al fresco. Dinner on board included a special cake to celebrate DD's birthday. Surprise included a decorated cabin. Made it a special event. As FT says, and knows from personal experience there is nothing like celebrating a birthday on SD.
The menu Thursday night included:
Starters
- Salad of Shrimp, Tomato and Avocado with Bell Pepper - Orange Dressing
- Homemade Terrine of Foie Gras with Fresh Figs Compote and Toasted Butter Bioche
- Homemade Vegetable Spring Rolls with Sweet and Sour Sauce
Soups
- Veloute of Forrest Mushroom with White Truffle Oil
- Chilled Mango
Salads
- Caesar Salad with Roasted Garlic Dressing and Croutons
- Waldorf Salad
Chef's Main Dishes
- Fillet of Cod Fish with Tomato Chutney and Herb Crust Artichokes a la Grecque and Boiled Potatoes
- Whole Roast Pork Tenderloin glazed with Calvados and Thyme Green Vegetables and gratin Potato
- Beijing Whole Roast Duck on Stir Fried Noodles Crispy Vegetables and Hoi-Sin Sauce
There were of course the Vegetarian alternatives and the selections from the Oriental Wellness Cuisine.
Desserts
- "Fondant au Chocolat Blanc" served with Raspberry Sorbet
- Oreo Cheese Cake served with Butter Scotch Sauce
- Porfiteroles stuffed with Ice Cream and Warm Chocolate Sauce
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