We arrived in Istanbul (known to the Greeks as Constantinople) around 8:00 a.m. This was debarkation day for most of the passengers, as it was the end of our first leg. Since we were on the back to back, for us this was another port day. As those of you who cruise Sea Dream know on disembarkation day the new arrivals are not allowed on board until 2:00 p.m. Both Peter and Jamie asked us about our plans for the day and let us know that we were free to come and go just like at any port. They let us know that we would be served lunch on the pool deck. We politely declined as we had a busy day planned and were going to be off the ship until about 4:30 p.m.
Our arrival into Istanbul was under cloudy, though not threatening skies. We docked at the cruise piers on one side of the Golden Horn, across the waterway from the old city. Our friends from Windstar were docked there as was the Celebrity Equinox. We enjoyed a light breakfast and were one of the first off the ship at 8:30 to meet our guide for the day. We were picked up by the guide and a driver in a nice Mercedes limo and driven across the Galata Bridge into Old Town.
The first stop was Topkapi Palace. The palace was the official and primary residence in the city of the Ottoman Sultans for 400 years until 1856. It was initially the seat of government as well as the imperial residence. Even though access was strictly regulated, inhabitants of the palace rarely had to venture out since the palace functioned almost as an autonomous entity, a city within a city.
We entered the palace through the Imperial Gate, also known as "Gate of the Sultan", which is located on the south side of the palace. The massive gate which is now covered in 19th century marble dates from 1478. When you go through the gate we were in the First Courtyard. In this area you do not even realize that you are in the palace. The First Courtyard functioned as an outer precinct or park and is the largest of all the courtyards of the palace. The First Courtyard contained purely functional structures and some royal ones. The structures that remain are the former Imperial Mint, the church of Hagia Irene and various fountains. This court was also known as the Court of the Janissaries or the Parade Court.
We walked across the area and through the Gate of Salutation, which is the entrance to the Second courtyard. Though the gate we entered a second open air courtyard, known as Divan Square, which was a park that used to be full of peacocks and gazelles, and was used as a gathering place for courtiers. The Second Courtyard was primarily used by the sultan to dispense justice and hold audiences.
The Imperial Council Chamber building is this courtyard. It was in this building that the ministers of state, council ministers, the Imperial Council, consisting of the Grand Vizier, viziers, and other leading officials of the Ottoman state, held meetings. It is located in the northwestern corner of the courtyard next to the Gate of Felicity. The council hall has multiple. The porch consists of multiple marble pillars, with an green and white-colored ceiling decorated with gold. The floor is covered in marble. The doors over the entrances into the hall from outside are constructed with gilded grills. The building consists of three adjoining main rooms. There are three domed rooms:
1. The first room where the Imperial Council held its deliberations is the Kubbealtı.
2. The second room was occupied by the secretarial staff of the Imperial Divan.
3. In the third room, called Defterhāne, records were kept by the head clerks. The last room also served as an archive in which documents were kept.
The main room is decorated with tiles. Three long sofas along the sides were the seats for the officials, with a small hearth in the middle. The small gilded ball that hangs from the ceiling represents the earth. It is placed in front of the sultan's window and symbolizes him dispensing justice to the world, as well as keeping the powers of his viziers in check. From the window with the golden grill, the Sultan was able to follow deliberations of the council without being noticed.
The palace kitchens are located across the courtyard from this building. Unfortunately they were under renovation and we did not get to go in to them. The palace kitchens consist of 10 domed buildings. Food was prepared for about 4,000 people. The kitchen staff consisted of more than 800 people. As many as 6,000 meals a day could be prepared.
We then passed through The Gate of Felicity, which is the entrance into the Inner Court, also known as the Third Courtyard. The Third Courtyard comprises the private and residential areas of the palace. The gate has a dome which is supported by marble pillars. It represents the presence of the Sultan in the palace. No one could pass this gate without the authority of the Sultan. In front of the gate we saw a small, indented stone on the ground in front of the gate which marks the place where the banner of the Prophet Muhammad was unfurled
The Audience Chamber, also known as Audience Hall or Chamber of Petitions, is located right behind the Gate of Felicity. We went through this small, square building, surrounded by a colonnade of 22 columns, supporting the large roof with hanging eaves. Inside is the main throne room with a dome and two smaller adjacent rooms. Here the sultan would sit on the canopied throne and personally receive the viziers, officials and foreign ambassadors who presented themselves. There is a small fountain at the entrance by Suleiman I, that was used to prevent others from overhearing secret conversations in this room.
To the left side of this courtyard is the Hall of the Holy relics. This is a museum that shows some of the most important items of the Muslim faith. Within this building we head an Imam reading verses of the Quran, 24 hours a day. Some of the items we observed in this area include a footprint of the Prophet, a mantle of the Prophet, and many other items of religious importance. Opposite this hall is the treasury hall that contains gems and other items that have been collected over the years. We were even able to see the spoonmaker's diamond, a dagger made with precious stones, and numerous gold and silver items.
We then went into the Fourth Courtyard, also known as the Imperial Sofa , which consists of a number of pavilions, kiosks, gardens and terraces. Buildings in this courtyard include the Circumcision Room, a summer kiosk dedicated to the circumcision of young princes. Its interior and exterior are decorated with a mixed collection.
When we finished exploring we headed back the way we came and left the palace. It is worth noting that we arrived early and as we were leaving the crowds were growing quickly.
We then walked around the edge of Hagia Sophia and across a lovely park like area to the Sultanahmet Mosque, better known as the "Blue Mosque". The domes and six slender minarets are some of the most prominent features of the skyline of Istanbul. In the 17th century, Sultan Ahmet I wished to build an Islamic place of worship that would be even better than the Hagia Sophia, and the mosque named for him is the result. It was built near the Hagia Sophia, over the site of the ancient hippodrome and Byzantine imperial palace (whose mosaics can be seen in the nearby Mosaic Museum). Construction work began in 1609 and took seven years.
One of the most notable features of the Blue Mosque is visible from far away: its six minarets. This is very unique, as most mosques have four, two, or just one minaret. The other striking feature of the exterior is the cascade of domes that seem to spill down from the great central dome. Our guide took us around to a side entrance to avoid the long line out front. We had to remove our shoes and FT had to make sure that her shoulders were covered.
We went in to the, the high ceilinged chamber which is lined with the blue tiles that give the mosque its popular name. The interior is lit with 260 windows, which were once filled with 17th-century stained glass. The most important element in the interior of the mosque is the mihrab, a niche in the wall that indicates the direction of the Kaaba in Mecca, which is made of finely carved and sculptured marble. To the right of the mihrab is the richly decorated minber, or pulpit, where the Imam stands when he is delivering his sermon at the time of noon prayer on Fridays or on holy days. The mosque has been designed so that even when it is at its most crowded, everyone in the mosque can see and hear the Imam.
We then left the mosque and walked through the hippodrome. This is a large park like area with three main monuments, was once a race track and field for sporting events and carnivals. Today the area is officially called Sultan Ahmet Square. The course of the old racetrack has been indicated with paving, although the actual track is some 2 m (6.6 ft) below the present surface. The surviving monuments of the Spina (the middle barrier of the racecourse), the two obelisks and the Serpentine Column, now sit in holes in a landscaped garden.
Among the monuments was the Tripod of Plataea, now known as the Serpent Column, cast to celebrate the victory of the Greeks over the Persians during the Persian Wars in the 5th century BC. The top was adorned with a golden bowl supported by three serpent heads. The bowl was destroyed or stolen during the Fourth Crusade. The serpent heads were destroyed as late as the end of the 17th Century, as many Ottoman miniatures show they were intact in the early centuries following the Turkish conquest of the city. All that remains of the Delphi Tripod today is the base, known as the "Serpentine Column".
Another item to adorn the Hippodrome is an obelisk from Egypt and erected it inside the racing track. Carved from pink granite, it was originally erected at the Temple of Karnak in Luxor during the reign of Tuthmosis III in about 1490 BC. Theodosius had the obelisk cut into three pieces and brought to Constantinople. Only the top section survives, and it stands today where Theodosius placed it, on a marble pedestal. The obelisk has survived nearly 3,500 years in astonishingly good condition.
In the 10th century another obelisk was built at the other end of the Hippodrome. It was originally covered with gilded bronze plaques, but they were sacked by Latin troops in the Fourth Crusade. The stone core of this monument also survives, known as the Walled Obelisk.
We then took a break and walked down to a ceramics ship where we saw ceramics being made. As is the Turkish custom we were warmly greeted, and offered warm apple tea. We wandered the shop and though there was no pressure to buy anything we ended bringing home a number of hand made and painted ceramic items.
After this brief rest we were off to my most anticipated stop, Hagia Sophia, the ancient seat of the Greek Orthodox church, Άγια Σοφία in Greek. The current structure was built in the present form between 532 and 537 under the personal supervision of Emperor Justinian I. For over 900 years the Hagia Sophia was the seat of the Orthodox Patriarch of Constantinople and a principal setting for church councils and imperial ceremonies. In 1204 the cathedral was ruthlessly attacked, desecrated and plundered by the Crusaders, who also ousted the Patriarch of Constantinople and replaced him with a Latin bishop. Hagia Sophia remained a functioning church until May 29, 1453, when Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror entered triumphantly into the city of Constantinople. He converted it into his imperial mosque. Hagia Sophia served as the principal mosque of Istanbul for almost 500 years.
As you enter the building to the left you observe the ruins of a Theodossian Church in a pit that is approximately 10 feet deep.
The Hagia Sophia has a classical basilica plan. The main ground plan of the building is a rectangle, 230 feet in width and 246 feet in length. The area is covered by a central dome with a diameter of 102 feet . The main dome is carried on four concave triangular sections of masonry which solve the problem of setting the circular base of a dome on a rectangular base. Each is decorated with a seraphim.
We entered at ground level, where most of the sights date from the Islamic period. A beautiful marble structure in the apse is the mihrab, a niche found in all mosques that indicates the direction of Mecca. The large freestanding stairway to the right of the mihrab is the minbar, or pulpit from which sermons were given. To the left of the mihrab is the grand sultan's loge. A mosaic depicting the Virgin and Child, decorates the area behind and above what would have been the altar. On the right is a partly damaged Archangel Gabriel mosaic, which used to face an Archangel Michael mosaic on the other side of the apse.
After exploring the ground floor we walked up the ramp to the upper floor, where most of the icons can be found. On the way to the ramp we passed the Miracle Column of St. Gregory, where it is said that if you place your thumb in the hole in the column and it comes out moist, your prayers will be answered.
The ramp to the upper floor switches directions five or six times. It was created , instead of steps so that the rules could be carried up, or horses ridden up. The best-known mosaic is called the Deësis Mosaic, and it is the first you come to as you enter the South Gallery through the Marble Door. It depicts a triumphant and kingly Christ (known as "Christ Pantrocrator"), flanked by the Virgin Mary and John the Baptist.
At the end of the South Gallery are two golden Byzantine mosaics. On the left is Christ with Emperor Constantine IX Monomachus and Empress Zoe; on the right is the Virgin and Child with Emperor John II Comnenus and Empress Irene. There are numerous other icons located throughout the structure.
Upon returning to the ground floor we found one of the two alabaster urns which are approximately 4 feet in height. Upon leaving, through the Vestibule of the Warriors, high and be us we saw a beautiful icon of the Virgin with Constantine and Justinian. Constantine the Great is presenting a model of the city of Constantinople (Istanbul), which he founded, and Emperor Justinian a model of the church of the Hagia Sophia, to the Virgin.
We then had to stop for lunch. We had managed to see four of the major sites in Istanbul in about 4 hours. Our guide took us to a wonderful Turkish restaurant, the Pudding Shop. Don’t let the name fool you. The food was authentic Turkish, and reminded me of the foods that my grandmother cooked when I was much younger. The rice pudding was the best that I have had in years!
After lunch and tea, our driver returned and we were whisked to the Grand Bazzaar! The Grand Bazaar (Kapalı Çarşı, or Covered Market) is Turkey's largest covered market. It resembles a giant labyrinth with approximately sixty lanes and 5,000 shops. It and attracts between 250,000 and 400,000 visitors daily. It is well known for its jewelry, hand-painted ceramics, carpets, embroideries, spices and antique shops. Many of the stalls in the bazaar are grouped by type of goods, with special areas for leather, gold jewellery and the like. The complex houses two mosques, four fountains, two hamams, and several cafés and restaurants.
Can you saw shopping mall extraordinaire? This place is huge. We walked around for a few minutes, and FT looked for some Pashiminas, but could not find any. I did manage to find some gold jewelry, so the trip was successful. The crowds were huge and simply too big to fight so after an hour or so, we left and headed to our final stop, the Spice Market.
The Egyptian (Spice) Bazaar (Mısır Çarşısı, built 1664), is located near the southern end of the Galata Bridge is filled with the fragrance of the exotic East. Spices, dried fruits, nuts and seeds, lokum (Turkish Delight) and other edibles fill most of the shops, though jewelry and other high-margin goods have begun to move in. FT had a field day in here.
Our guide took us to a wonderful shop and we left with literally kilos of spices, dried fruits and nuts, and even saffron! Alas our touring time had come to an end and it was back to the ship. Our guide dropped us off right at the terminal and it was a short walk to the gangway. We were met by the ever present June, who helped us with our bags full of treasures and we were back on our home for another week.
After getting new key cards and dropping our goodies in the cabin it was time to head to the TOY, where we ran into old friends as we recounted our day in Istanbul over some wonderfully cold adult beverages. Since we had left this morning the clouds had melted away and we were basking in wonderful sunshine with a cool breeze blowing. It was soon time for the safety drill. Since we were in transit, we did not have to participate; some others were not so lucky and managed to add 15 minutes to the drill by refusing to participate. I should note that the city was hosting an F1 race this week so we got to deal with that crowd too.
Sail away was promptly at 6:00 p.m. and the views of the Old City and the Bospherus were incredible as we sailed into the sun. Since we had a new passenger mix we joined everyo9ne for cocktails at 7:00 in the main salon and then enjoyed dinner al fresco on deck 4. The sunset was absolutely gorgeous. We sailed through the Dardanelles around 4:00 a.m. and I was just not going to get up to see them in the dark again. Hopefully next time we will get to stop.
Tonight’s menu included:
Starters
Rosette of Prosciutto Ham with Melon Tricolore, Grissini and Crushed Black Pepper
Grilled Escalope of Norwegian Salmon on asparagus Salad and Egg Tartar
Sea Scallops Skewer on Thai Risotto and Chicken Galangal Soup
Soups
Cream of Celery Flavored with Nutmeg
Chilled Cucumber and Dill Soup
Pork and Noodle Soup with Red Chilli
Salads
Greek Style Salad with Feta Cheese
Hot and Tangy Prawn with Fruit Salad
World Flavor
Grilled Veal Saltimbocca with Fresh Sage
Herb Linguini and Marsala Sauce
Chef’s Main Dishes
Fresh Yellow Fin Tuna Steak on Roasted Zucchini
Black Pepper Coated Mignon of Beef Tenderloin
Supreme of Free Range Chicken on Roasted Cherry Tomatoes
Dessert
Grand Marnier Soufflé
Sautéed Strawberries with Candied Black Olives and Olive Oil Ice Cream
Coconut Rice Pudding
After dinner a DVD was shown in the main salon – “Tony Bennett – Live by Request” In addition the Piano Bar was open with Zoltan serving drinks and the TOY was open with Clint and Colin taking care of everyone’s needs. (As per Sea Dream customs the TY and the Piano Bar operate every night so I will not mention this again.) We ended up turning in early, as is our habit because every day is packed with off ship activities.
Since this is our “second” first night we got pajamas again as a gift. Mine are embroidered ZQ Vol and FT’s say F Traveler. Priceless!
Our distance to the next port, Mytilini, Lesvos, Greece, is 221 nautical miles.
More pictures are available on my flickr page by clicking HERE
The author of this blog is not compensated by Sea Dream Yacht Club in any manner.
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